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| Lets Talk About Pearls |
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The value of pearls is based on many factors – some physical, some aesthetic. To a certain extent it is a question of fashion and individual taste. There are also basic standards used to evaluate pearls.
LUSTERPearls have a rich inner glow that seems to come from deep within. That’s luster. It’s an effect caused by light reflecting and diffusing through the layers of nacre. High luster tends to make a pearl more valuable. As a test, stand with a beam of bright light behind you, hold a large, fine-quality cultured pearl close to your face. You’ll see the light reflected and yourself. Detailed Explanation ORIENTThe play of light refracted through many layers of concentric nacre creates the orient – the iridescence of a pearl that sometimes creates a rainbow effect. The Latin word oriens means “the rising of the sun”. Detailed Explanation NACRE
A pearl and the inside surface of the shell of its parent oyster or mussel are made of nacre. Layer by layer, this crystalline substance builds up around a small bead or piece of shell (the nucleus) implanted in the culturing process. The thicker the nacre, the more lustrous and durable the pearl is. Through a microscope, the surface nacre of a cultured pearl looks like a lunar landscape – irregular “fingerprints” that are unique. To check if a new pearl is “real”, rub it gently against your front teeth. If it feels bumpy or gritty, it’s probably a genuine cultured pearl. A simulated or imitation pearl will glide over the teeth and feel like plastic.
SIZEMost pearls are measured by their diameter, irregularly shaped pearls by their width and sometimes length. The standard of measurement is the millimeter (mm). From less than 1mm (seed pearls) to over 20mm (South Seas & sometimes Tahitians), the size of a cultured pearl depends mainly on the size of the parent oyster or mussel, the size of the implant nucleus, and how long it is cultivated. All factors being equal, the larger the pearl, the greater the value. For instance, a Mabe cultured pearl has a wide diameter but is a “half-pearl” with a flat bottom. Its value is much less than a large, round South Sea cultured pearl of similar quality.
SHAPECultured pearls come in an almost infinite variety of shapes, partly determined by the shape of the nucleus around which the pearl is formed. Round pearls are the traditional favorites. A pearl with an irregular shape is called Baroque. The popular pear and teardrop pearls are Semi-Baroque - irregular but symmetrical. No matter what the shape, it falls into one of five main categories. Round: Symmetrical spheres. Variation rate of diameter – 2% or less.Semi-Round: Spherical. Variation rate of diameter – 2-5%. Baroque: Irregular Semi-Baroque: (Drop Button Oval Pear) Partially symmetrical. One axis of revolution or more. Circled: (Primarily Tahitian & South Sea pearls) Streaks, ridges or rings in regular formation on the upper third (minimum) of surface. To test the roundness of a pearl, place it on a smooth, sloped surface. The rounder the pearl, the straighter and more easily it rolls.
COLORFrom opaline white to anthracite black, the palest pastels to vibrant hues, pearls come in almost every color and shade. The finest have a subtle interplay of colors – the primary body color plus delicate overtones. One of the rarest colors today is the rich warm gold of South Sea pearls from the Philippines.
SURFACEWhat’s called “cleanliness” affects the value of a pearl. Generally, the fewer blemishes the better. Tiny irregularities are acceptable and can be a test of authenticity.
WEIGHTThe value of a pearl is seldom judged by weight. Single pearls are weighed by grains or carats. One grain = 50 milligrams. Four grains = one carat. In the wholesale market, strands of cultured pearls are often sold by the "momme" (pronounced moh-may). One momme = 3/4 ounce or 3.75 grams. COHERENCEEach cultured pearl is unique. To create jewelry, pearls that complement or match each other are selected in a process that can take years. Thousands of pearls may be rejected to find the desired combination. When the results are successful, the piece has balance and works as a harmonious whole. It has coherence. Lets Look At Some Pearls!
Cultured Pearl Strands Graded Akoya Necklace Program Pearl History 101History of Pearls | A Fabulous Past in Fashion | The First Cultured Pearls | About Pearls
Cultured Pearl TypesAkoya | South Sea | Tahitian | Keshi & Mabe | Freshwater
More About PearlsLets Talk More About Pearls | How To Wear Pearls | Care For Your Pearls |
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